Thursday, 4 November 2010

Passat B5 Engine Service

Getting your car serviced even at a back street garage costs a fortune these days, yet its such a simple proceedure and not half as expensive as you would think.  No major special tools required and the servicing parts themselves are cheap when sourced correctly.  If you haven't tried it yet have a go and be your own service technician and give yourself a pay rise.

Tools required:


AIR FILTER REPLACEMENT

I think its always best to work from the cleanest job through to the dirtiest last, so to begin with the first and easiest thing to do is the air filter, located on the left side of the engine bay.  Simply unclip the surrounding metal clips that hold the air filter cover in place and sealed.  Lift the cover up slightly to allow the old air filter to be removed.  If you struggle to get access you can remove the air pipe that the filter cover is attached to and replace with a jubilee clip afterwards.  I always take this opportunity to vac out the airbox to remove any debris that has built up.  Simply slot the new air filter in place of the old one ensuring the fins are face down and the rubber seal meets up with the surround of the airbox.  Reattach and reclip the cover in place.





SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT

Now remove the main engine cover which has screws to hold it in place.  A good thick flat head screw driver is best so as not to damage the plastic screws.  You will see two of the spark plug HT leads and a large coil pack which covers the other two.  Working from the closest plug remove the HT lead holding the rubber cover securely it will just pop off.  Now using a 10mm spark plug wrench or socket set which should have the right parts turn anticlockwise until its completely free.  Don't worry if the plug feels tight when trying to undo as the heat from the engine can cause them to lock up.  Fit the new plug and if doing an oil change take a small drop of oil and rub onto the new plug thread.  Carefully tighten by hand ensuring the plug has correctly lined up as you don't want to end up threading the hole as this will be an expensive repair.  Finally tighten with the wrench until it feels tight, you won't need to burst a blood vessel here so don't over tighten.  Replace the HT lead pushing down on the head to make full contact.  Repeat the process for the other visible plug.  Now using a torx head remove the bolts holding the coil pack in place.  Lift off and you will see the other two spark plugs which can be replaced with the above method.




OIL & FILTER CHANGE

Now for the dirty part of the service and a good time to put on some latex gloves.  The best way to tackle this job is to jack the car on the corner where the sump plug sits under the engine lump so not only can you get clear access but also the oil will drain to the corner and get more of any sediment build up.  Now open the oil cap on top of the engine.  I always slacken the sump plug first just incase there is a problem and it wont come off after Ive started.  The sump plug can be removed with a 17mm socket head.  Place an oil basin under the sump plug and oil filter to catch all the dirty old oil.  Now fully undo the sump plug and place it to one side as it should be reusable.  Undo the oil filter using the oil filter wrench but if it refuses to budge you can stick a flat blade screw driver into it which usually gets it loose.  Remove the filter by hand once loose enough.  After all the oil has drained out and this can take some time, refit the sump plug and tighten.  Smear a little oil on the new oil filters rubber surround and threaded hole to allow a good fit and retighten by hand in place of the old one.  Once hand tight get a cloth and wrap it round the filter to give it a little tighten further.  Its always recommended to check the oil filter a day or so after fitting to make sure you can't hand tighten it any more as you don't want it to come loose while driving.  Now slowly top up the engine oil, any spillages are best cleaned up immediately with an old cloth otherwise you will have the smell of it burning off the engine block for a few days.  I usually fill half the oil first and then check the dip stick adding small amounts with each check.  Always reseat the dip stick fully before looking at the level.  Do not over fill and when the stick reads just over half way stop.  Refit the engine oil cap and give the engine a run then recheck the oil level on the dip stick and top up as required, three quarters is always more than enough.  Also make sure the dip stick is tightly seated in place as any air getting in can affect how the engine runs.




To my knowledge the two HT leads and the coil pack only need to be changed if found faulty and should last many years on these cars.  If you think there is a problem consult your dealer or a specialist.  I will add photos shortly.



SERVICE PARTS LIST

1.6 Litre Engine:
Spark Plugs Set Ngk - x4 BKUR6ET-10
NEW O.E Quality Coopers Panel Air Filter
K&N Air Filter 33-2125
NEW O.E Quality Coopers Spin-On Oil Filter
CASTROL EDGE 5W-40 Synthetic Engine Oil 4 Litre

1.8 Litre 20v Engine:
Spark Plugs Set Ngk - x4 PFR6Q
NEW O.E Quality Coopers Panel Air Filter
Pipercross Performance Air Filter - PP1443
NEW O.E Quality Coopers Spin-On Oil Filter
CASTROL EDGE 5W-40 Synthetic Engine Oil 4 Litre


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